TY175: Rear Mudguard

This was a bit of a battle. I started with a new pattern rear guard, a NOS Yamaha inner metal guard, and all brand new Yamaha NOS fixings, grommets, etc.

So I offerd it all up, and with a lot of pushing, pulling and swearing, I managed to get all the fixings in, but, the mudguard was kinked, and under a lot of stress.... So, scratch head, and back to workbench.

As the inner guard was genuine Yamaha, I figured that would be the best alignment of the mounting holes. But, against my frame, the rear hole needed a little elongation to fit. You can just see it below.

I then had to elongate the three holes in the plastic guard to match the 3 mounts on the inner guard. Once this was done, it all mounted up OK. I had to add a washer to the rearmost mount, on the visible top of the plastic guard to hide the elongated hole, but it's not noticeable.

Below are some general shots of where the build is at.

TY175: Wheels

OK, I haven't updated the TY build lately, as I haven't had much time...
But, I have completed the rebuild of the wheels, and a few other odds and sods.

Front Wheel:
Following the front wheel build, I've installed new bearings, dust seals, etc, and have just completed the true and offset

Rear Wheel:
Fully rebuilt with new spokes, bearings, seals, etc.

I bought an 4.00 x 18 IRC rear tyre from TYTrials, along with new tube, rim locks, etc. Unfortunately, I punctured the inner tube when fitting the tyre. I've another new tube, so will take both wheels to local MX shop and get them to fit them both.

TY175: Brakes and Forks Update

Here's a longer update on activity over the recent break:
Front Brake:
I touched up the NOS (New Old Stock) brake plate with Humbrol silver modelling paint, rather than stripping and refinishing it. I think it came out OK.

As this brake plate came with no speedo internals, I bought the worm gear parts from CMSNL (see link at top of page), and used the drive parts that engage with the wheel from my old plate.

And adding new brake shoes, and the re-zinc'ed arm and cam, etc, I ended up with this:

I polished the alloy torque arm and along with the re-zinc'ed spindle, etc, I loosely installed the brake plate as below.

Forks:
You'll see here, that the forks are in. That's another job carried out. I cleaneed up (but not highly polished) the fork bottoms using scotchbrite pads in an electric drill. I've left the bottoms as bare ally, I'll not paint them. As you can see, they may still need a little polishing tweak just to 'average out' the scotchbrite marks. But, following earlier work on the yolks, I found the finish naturally mellows over time to a more even look, so hopefully, the legs will settle down too.
I installed new taper head bearings, and using re-zinc'ed original bolts for all except the handle bar clamps which are NOS Yamaha bolts, I re-fitted the yorks.

The forks are supposed to extend out of the top yolk by 20mm or so. I found NOS cable guides (one on each fork) from an eBay ad in Australia. My reference photos from Yamaha brochures seem to say to keep the left hand cable guide (RHS in image below) down as low as possible. NOTE: I've just realised that both guides should be on the same side as the lower guide (see ref images below), ie, both should be on LHS of the bike! I'll change that later! Although my parts books show the top guide on RHS.

Extracts from my ref images:

Rear Brakes:
Again, I touched up the NOS rear brake plate with Humbrol paint, rather than refinishing it.

Then added in the new pads, and re-zinc'ed original arm and cam, etc

And along with the polished torque arm, loosely inserted the brake along with re-zinc'ed spindle, spacers, adjusters, etc.

That pretty much completes the xmas break work on the bike. All coming along nicely. The sharp eyed will have noticed the tank installed at one point. This is my unfinished tank, and installed just to check if the forks cleared the tank on full lock. They didn't on left hand lock by less than a mm. I wish I'd have checked that before I had the frame painted, as I could have built some weld up on the stop. So, I'll just stick a small rubber pad on that stop (or more probably, both stops to keep things even) just to protect the tank once it's painted.

TY175: Front Wheel Laced Up

I spent the last hour lacing up the front wheel. Here it is, all spokes are finger tight. I'll put the bearings in next, then I'll need to master truing of the wheel.

TY175: Wheels Back From Aqua Blasting

To say I'm impressed would be an understaement. These bits have come up unbelieveably well. Bearings are in the freezer, ready to fit tomorrow, and I may try lacing one up as well.

As they Were:

As They Are:

TY175: Wheels and Hubs

I've removed the spokes from the pair of rear wheels to get one good rim and hub. I'm ready now to send both rims and hubs off to get aqua blasted, and then, probably, to get painted. I spent time fettling the rims to remove the worst of the dings and scratches. I'll see when they're cleaned up, if I need to fettle the rims any more, and also decide on either paint or natural finish.

TY175: Spokes Question

See below, many (but not all) of the spokes I've removed have this spacer on the nipple end, inside the rim. I have Japanese DID Rims if it makes a difference. I'm assuming these are installed is the thread runs out before the spoke is tight. Is that correct? And, as I'm reusing the DID Rims with a genuine Yamaha spoke set, do you think I'll need them, and if so, where can I get some new ones??